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- THE AMERICAN EXPLORERS
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- ┌─────────────────────┐
- │ F1 - Introduction │
- │ F2 - Boone │
- │ F3 - Gray │
- │ F4 - Jefferson's: │
- │ Lewis & Clark │
- │ F5 - Pike │
- │ F6 - Hunt │
- └─────────────────────┘
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- ~#1
- Introduction
-
- The early colonists who came to the eastern shores of America
- were ill-prepared for what lay before them, but for the poor and war-
- weary European there was the promise of a new beginning. As if by
- God's command, they wanted to bring the land under the control of
- "civilized" people.
-
- During the early years of the first American frontier, no one
- realized how wide the continent really was. As a result, the various
- charters issued to many colonies were from coast to coast. But as
- long as the French dominated the Great Lakes, Mississippi and Ohio
- valleys and Spain the southern boundaries and beyond the Mississippi
- these titles were meaningless. But there seemed an abundance of land
- between the Mississippi and the Alleghenies and few were concerned
- initially by the apparent conflicts of ownership
-
- Many of the States had bills to pay for various services. One
- way to do so was to grant land in the unsettled territories in place
- of cash or other goods. Land speculators quickly bought up great
- tracts of property at depressed prices from individuals who wanted
- cash rather than distant unproven land and had no desire to open new
- frontiers or confront Indians who vigorously contested the rights of
- ownership. Yet there were many who were unhappy with their current
- condition. New immigrants from overseas were also in quest for land if
- only someone would show the way.
-
- The French wished to keep the area free of settlement for their
- fur interests and their Indian colleagues. And British traders such
- as Irish James Adair and Scot Lachlan McGillivray who opened trade
- routes to the midwest in the mid-1700s also added their voices to
- those opposed to settlement of the region. Mal-treatment of the
- Indian population was so prevalent that at the close of the French and
- Indian Wars (1763) the British sought to impose a ban on the purchase
- of Indian lands and ordered that settlement must not pass beyond the
- crest of the Alleghenies. This was to be a temporary measure designed
- to protect Indian interests (and the valuable British fur trade.) But
- irate State representatives, squatters and real estate speculators
- continued to claim Indian acreage. State governments were especially
- active in Virginia and Pennsylvania - their grants frequently con-
- flicting. Virginia alone issued land warrants for almost 3 million
- acres. Woodsmen were needed to survey and map the land. Dr. Thomas
- Walker while working for the Loyal Land Company explored the upper
- Roanoke River [1748-50] and discovered the Cumberland Gap in 1750.
- Christopher Gist was one who explored western Pennsylvania, the Ohio
- River and eastern Kentucky in 1750 and mapped western Virginia a year
- later for the Ohio Company formed by Virginia speculators. George
- Washington also worked as a surveyor for the Ohio Company and was
- himself a land speculator in 1767 as were Jefferson and Patrick Henry.
- Washington even spoke out against the English ban against settlement
- in Indian territory.
-
- A number of attempts were made to establish legal claims but the
- most effective procedure was just to ignore the British proclamation
- and Indian rights - though cynical methods were made to 'buy' the land
- from one tribe or another. Richard Henderson was one property specu-
- lator who decided to skirt the British law. He dreamed of an enormous
- tract of western land but he needed help.
-
- ~#2
- DANIEL BOONE [1734-1820]:
-
- Daniel's father, Squire Boone, blocked by the mountains to the
- west, moved south in 1750 with 6 of his children and several grand-
- children and settled in Yadkin Valley of northwestern, North Carolina
- when Daniel was 16. Poor but dreaming of land - a common sign of
- wealth and social status - he and others like him settled the land
- with little more than an ax, rifle, kettle and bag of salt.
-
- Daniel Boone bought a farm in 1759 in Yadkin Valley which his
- wife and children usually worked while he was away. He was a 'long-
- hunter' which took him away for extended periods of time hunting and
- selling deer skins. (Our word "buck" comes from the $1 price of a
- deer skin.) He, too, wished to have a place of wealth and dignity.
- He had been a teamster during Braddock's fateful 1755 expedition
- against Fort Duquesne - one of the few to escape the massacre. When
- he was approached by Henderson to explore the land over the
- Alleghenies, he thought it would give him his chance especially as he
- would be the first on the scene and could pick and choose his land
- from the best.
-
- John Findlay (Finley) had lived in Kentucky with the Shawnees for
- a while in 1752 and had explored the Falls of the Ohio and Warriors
- Pass. As a fellow survivor of Braddock's campaign and bothered by
- debts he showed up at Boone's door for a companion to go to Kentucky.
- Boone had made on attempt in 1767 to hunt there but failed. This
- time, outfitted by Henderson, Boone set out on May 1, 1769 guided by
- John Findlay, with John Stewart, a brother-in-law and 3 others. The
- party soon reached the Indian trail called Warrior's Trace and moved
- through Cumberland Gap north to the bluegrass country of Kentucky.
- They stayed until 1771 exploring the area for good land, streams and
- salt (needed by every settler for curing meat). Boone returned in the
- spring with tales of a wonderful, rich land. He collected his family
- and a small group of settlers and returned in 1773 but was stopped by
- the Indians. Boone's eldest son was killed in the fray. Henderson
- obtained a huge parcel of land - about 20 million acres - between
- Kentucky and Cumberland rivers from the Cherokees in March 1775 and
- established the Transylvania Company - one of the many land companies
- springing up to take advantage of western land grabbing. His title
- was questionable, to say the least, but he again turned to Boone for
- help. In March of that year Boone and a group of axmen cleared a
- trail through Cumberland Gap to the Kentucky River and by April they
- were building cabins in Boonsborough. But the greediness and high-
- handed demands of Transylvania caused resentment. One group led by
- George Rogers Clark protested in June 1776. When Kentucky became a
- county of Virginia Henderson lost his holdings but received some
- 200,000 acres from the State for his efforts.
-
- Boone had trouble all his life establishing legal claims to his
- land. Virginia and North Carolina voided most of these land con-
- tracts. But, through the efforts of Boone and others like him, the
- land between the Alleghenies and the Mississippi were opened up. In
- 1785 the Continental Congress passed a bill to survey the "Western
- Lands" to resolve conflicts of interest and claims of ownership.
- Thomas Hutchins was sent out to examine the area west of the Ohio. He
- not only resolved many claims but established the use of astronomical
- observation for the accurate surveying and plotting of land.
-
- Elsewhere the British were especially active. James Cook was
- surveying the Northwest coast by sea in search of the Northwest
- passage and reporting on the rich furs to be found there. George
- Vancouver was exploring the North Pacific coast by ship in 1792-95.
- Alexander Mackenzie was searching for a river route by land to the
- west coast from the east. David Thompson was exploring the headwaters
- of the Mississippi and Missouri rivers in 1797-98, and he built the
- first trading post on the Columbia River (1811).
-
- With the establishment of her Republic in 1792 the French, too,
- retain an interest in regaining her lost lands. Dreaming of an ever
- expanding empire Napoleon sent soldier cartographer Victor Collet and
- Joseph Warin in 1796 to spy the land and map the Ohio and Mississippi
- rivers.
-
- ~#3
- ROBERT GRAY [1755-1806]:
-
- Robert Gray was an American merchant captain who pioneered in the
- American China fur trade in exchange for tea and silk. He became the
- first American to circle the globe (1787-90 & 1793). He was the
- captain on one of the 2 ships financed by Boston merchants to tap the
- sea otter trade. In his search for products on the West coast he met
- Vancouver and Peter Puget sailing the same area. He directed them
- north; he turned south. In May 1792 he discovered and named the
- Columbia River (after his ship) and Gray's Harbor in Oregon. His
- efforts, while largely commercial, provided support for US claims to
- the Northwest area.
-
- Yet American activity was limited to the coast. By 1800 the new
- country still contained less than 5½ million people (not including
- Indians), and 1/5 of these were black slaves. Due to the difficulty
- of transportation and communication settlers still hugged the narrow
- coastal region along the Atlantic. Seldom did settlement extend more
- than 50 miles inland, and 2/3 of the population resided there. The
- remaining 1/3, the backwoodsmen or frontier people, lived in isolation
- somewhere in the Appalachians in hidden mountain valleys separated by
- 100 miles or so of wilderness. The pressure was endless to move
- westward by these and newcomers to escape poverty, criminal acts,
- demanding labor, debt, unreasoning government or just boredom and the
- search for 'greener grass'.
-
- President Thomas Jefferson conceived of a West that stretched
- thousands of miles beyond the Mississippi to the Pacific. When he
- spoke to the Nation having "room enough for our descendants to the
- thousandth and ten thousandth generation" he envisioned American
- settlement of the entire vast area. As early as 1783 while Secretary
- of State he had expressed such an interest to George R. Clark. In
- 1786 while Minister to France he asked John Ledyard to reach the
- Northwest by way of Asia and Eastern Siberia. Ledyard managed 3,000
- miles before being turned back. French botanist (and French spy?)
- Andre Michoux applied to the America Philosophical Society for finan-
- cial aid "to find the shortest ... route ... to the Pacific." In 1792
- he received $128.25 - $12.50 from Jefferson. Michoux, not surprising-
- ly, got no further than Illinois. But Jefferson was struggling
- against international intrigues from France, from England's inter-
- minable support for the Indian allies on the northern borders and
- Spanish intentions to the south. Would his country be hemmed in at
- the Allegheny Mountains? He was aware of the 1801 published accounts
- of the Mackenzie explorations and the discoveries of merchantmen but
- he needed more direct information concerning the interior.
-
- Jefferson achieved success with Lewis & Clark, who started up the
- Missouri River in 1804 to explore the northern portion of the
- Louisiana Purchase. Later, he also sent men up the Ouchita and Red
- rivers in the Louisiana-Arkansas-Oklahoma-Texas region. Zebulon Pike
- searched for the Mississippi's ultimate source (which he failed to
- find) and subsequently went west to the central Rockies. A lull
- followed the War of 1812, but in 1820, during President Monroe's
- administration, Stephen H. Long explored Colorado from the Platte
- south to the Arkansas. In 1842 John Charles Fremont began his great
- explorations of the American West.
-
- More information about the west came from private trappers and
- traders such as Jim Bridger and Jedediah Smith, artists such as George
- Catlin and Alfred Jacob Miller, and scientists such as botanist Thomas
- Nuttall, geologist John S. Newberry, ornithologist Dr. John K. Towns-
- end and painter-naturalist John James Audubon. So alluring was the
- region that European sportsmen such as Sir William Drummond Stewart
- and Prince Maximilian of Wied came to hunt and see the new country.
-
- While thousands were making homes in the West, others were lured
- by the promise of gold and silver. California beckoned in 1849 and
- Pike's Peak in 1859, and through the middle decades of the century
- many other regions were opened up to mining.
-
- Before the Civil War, a dynamic booster named William Gilpin was
- busy ridiculing Stephen Long's judgment that the Great Plains was a
- "Great American Desert," insisting that the area could support a
- substantial population devoted to pastoral pursuits. With the war
- over and railroads pushing westward and a strong demand existing for
- beef in the growing cities of the East, the years of the open cattle
- industry began in 1866 and would continue until 1886.
-
- The 19th century exploration of the trans-Mississippi West was
- America's greatest adventure. When President Jefferson bought the
- Louisiana Territory from France in 1803, neither he nor Napoleon, nor
- the Spaniards who lived on its fringes, knew exactly what the U.S. had
- acquired. The width of the continent was known, thanks to Alexander
- MacKensie's trek across Canada in 1793. Spanish and English mariners
- had charted the Pacific Coast with some accuracy. California was
- dotted with Spanish missions as far north as San Francisco Bay.
- Conquistadors and missionaries had penetrated the Southwest.
-
- Coronado had crossed the Great Plains as early as 1540. By 1800,
- however, only a few Spaniards had ventured out across those same Great
- Plains to the Mississippi in his footsteps. And to the north only a
- few daring French traders had ventured down from Canada to the upper
- Missouri that, for all one knew, coursed straight from the Pacific in
- a northwest passage. Information about the interior was sparse and
- often fanciful. Jedediah Morse's 1797 map in the first American
- geography book was a typical summary of the white man's knowledge of
- the West; it contained mostly blank spaces or else mythical rivers and
- apocryphal kingdoms. There was talk of a clan of Welsh speaking
- Indians, a band of 18 inch devils and a tribe of Amazons each with the
- left breast removed to facilitate the use of the bow. To most Ameri-
- cans America started over again at the Mississippi River.
-
- Unknown to Americans in 1800, the country that stretched west -
- the "great prairie ocean" - was everything but "The Great American
- Desert". In both summer and winter it teemed with game of all kinds,
- dominated by the vast herds of buffalo.
-
- It was not uninhabited. The Plains Indians - Sioux, Cheyenne,
- Arapaho, Pawnee, Osage, Comanche and Kiowa - followed the buffalo
- herds on horseback. The river tributaries were the homes of the more
- sedentary tribes: the Omaha, Arikara, Mandan, Otoe, and Kansa to name
- a few. In the mountains dwelt the Crow, Blackfeet, Gros Ventre,
- Flathead, Snake, Bannock, Ute, and Paiute. To the south Apache and
- Navajo waged continual war on the Pueblo whose stacked up apartment
- houses along the river valleys were among the largest man-made struc-
- tures on the continent. The southwestern river tribes - Papago, Pima,
- Mohave, Chemhuevi, and Yaqui - were ever present.
-
- The Indians were, of course, the first known explorers of the
- West. They knew the rivers and the passes through the Rockies and
- they knew the trails across the plains on either side. Nearly every
- exploring party depended upon the Indian knowledge of the West, and
- the earliest explorers of the Rockies saw the logic of turning Indian
- themselves if they were to survive in the unknown wilderness.
-
-
- ~#4
- Jeffersonian Pathfinders
-
- At the turn of the century the American government feared that
- control of the Mississippi would choke off the growing American
- commerce in the interior. Rivers were the key to communication and
- transport until the era of the railroad. The difference in cost of
- traveling 30 or 3000 miles was not that great. Spain, still in
- residence in the city of New Orleans actually suspended the right of
- Americans to tranship cargoes there. Jefferson decided to offer to
- buy the territory of New Orleans from France to protect American
- interests. Fortunately, Napoleon needed cash to finance his military
- conquests and offered the whole Louisiana Territory up to the Con-
- tinental Divide (wherever that was) for $15 million much to Jeffer-
- son's surprise and joy. [Spain believed the transaction was illegal.]
- The purchase of Louisiana Territory from France in 1803 provided the
- spur to move Congress to support western exploration. The acquisition
- more than doubled the size of the country. It was still largely
- unknown and uncharted but control of the Mississippi River provided a
- highway to the interior.
-
- President Jefferson had planned and proposed the exploration of
- the West even before the purchase of Louisiana. In 1802 he had tried
- unsuccessfully to persuade the Spanish ambassador to grant the U.S.
- permission to send an expedition into the West (to which Spain laid
- claim). Jefferson, nevertheless, was determined to go ahead with the
- expedition and Lewis and Clark were already in Pittsburgh preparing
- for the trip. When the news of the purchase reached them the two were
- overjoyed that the trip was now "legal". On February 23, 1803,
- Congress voted funds of $2,500 to support the project as a scientific
- and commercial venture. The cost eventually reached almost $40,000.
-
- Jefferson, a lover of science, had both scientific and economic
- objectives in mind. He was as interested as anyone in making contact
- with the western tribes and securing the potentially rich fur trade
- for the U.S. But he also had much broader objectives. One of these
- was a lingering hope that the expedition would discover a river
- passage across the continent. To this end he directed it to travel
- the Missouri and Columbia rivers in an effort to find "the most direct
- and practical water communication across the continent for purposes of
- commerce." If Americans could locate and somehow control such a
- passage along the rivers, then the U.S. could dominate not only the
- western half of the continent but the growing trade with China as
- well. Politically, the expedition must notify any British/Canadian
- traders in the area that they were exploiting the new American land.
-
- The key to such control, however, was knowledge of and good
- relations with the numerous Indian tribes who inhabited the region.
- Jefferson instructed the explorers to deal with the Indians very
- carefully and to study them in all their ways, whether war or peace.
- In fact, the largest initial bulk cost of supplies was almost $700 for
- presents for the Indians. Beyond this they were to take due note of
- all "animals, plants, and minerals that might provide commercial
- advantage".
-
- ~#4
- MERIWETHER LEWIS [1774-1809] & WILLIAM CLARK [1770-1838]:
-
- Meriwether Lewis had spent his youth on the Georgia frontier and
- had acquired the skills need to live in the wilderness. As early as
- 1792 he had become excited by Jefferson's wish to send explorers into
- the West and had volunteered. To prepare himself he learned celestial
- navigation, natural history, botany, anatomy, medicine and sociology.
- He redesigned the Kentucky rifle at the Harper's Ferry Armory. So
- well did he achieve his goal that his rifle became the first mass-
- produced infantry weapon for the U.S. Army. When the decision to go
- was made, Lewis, Jefferson's secretary since 1801, was appointed to
- lead the expedition. William Clark, a soldier, experienced woodsman
- and younger brother of George R. Clark, and friend was offered joint
- command of the "Corps of Discovery" as the band was called. Before
- the journey was over each officer had mastered the skills of the other
- and their remarkable cooperation made the success of the journey
- possible.
-
- In May 1804, the 43-man team left Camp Wood by boat on the Wood
- River near St Louis. For 7 months the Corps of Discovery toiled up
- the winding Missouri, often hauling their heavy keelboat upstream by
- rope while rain turned the footing along the banks to mud and swarms
- of gnats and mosquitoes made their lives miserable. Along the way
- they had little trouble with Indians, and only one man fell a casual-
- ty. Sgt Charles Floyd died of what was probably appendicitis and was
- buried on a bluff overlooking the river near Sioux City. Wherever
- they could, Lewis & Clark held councils with the Missouri River tribes
- in an effort to win their allegiance to the U.S.
-
- Winter quarters were established far upriver 4 miles below the
- Mandan villages near present day Bismarck, North Dakota. Up to now,
- the country was known to a degree as they had English maps provided by
- James Mackay and John Evans (who had visited the area for Spain), but
- now they were moving into the unknown. Here Lewis & Clark hired fur
- trader Toussaint Charbonneau to serve as cook and translator and who
- prevailed upon them to bring along his young Shoshoni Indian wife,
- Sacajawea, for possible assistance in translating. She turned out to
- be the much more valuable addition. Here also they met wary agents of
- the Canadian North West Company of fur traders who inquired as to
- their intentions. Already a trading frontier or national sphere of
- influence had begun to be established.
-
- On May 14, 1804, a small party was sent downstream on the keel-
- boat with scientific specimens and notebooks while the 29 remaining
- members of the party continued up the Missouri in canoes. They
- traveled around the great bend of the Missouri, past the mouth of the
- Yellowstone and the 80 foot high, 300 yard wide Great Falls (it took
- 18 miles and 24 days portage to get around it) to the Three Forks of
- the Missouri River. After some discussion and trial runs they finally
- followed the western, or Jefferson, fork. Then, after crossing The
- Continental Divide on Aug 12 at Lemhi Pass (7,373 ft elevation) with
- the help of Sacajawea who recognized landmarks, they met Sacajawea's
- Shoshoni relatives, who helped them get horses and guide for the
- difficult mountain ranges of Idaho to the Salmon River and the Bitter-
- root Valley. From a point which they called "Travellers Rest," near
- present-day Missoula, Montana, they crossed over, via 5233 ft Lolo
- Pass, to the Clearwater which flowed into the Snake and in October to
- the Columbia. In December 1805, the final group reached the shores of
- the Pacific and they camped on the south bank of the river. They
- became the first to cross the western part of North America south of
- Canada. As if to document the presence of the U.S. on that remote
- coast, Clark carved on a tall yellow pine: "William Clark December
- 3rd, 1805. By land from the U. States in 1804 and 1805." Then they
- built the first American station in the region, Fort Clatsop, and went
- into winter quarters. During the 5 months spent on the coast they
- experienced only 12 days without rain.
-
- On the return trip in the spring of 1806 the party divided after
- crossing Lolo Pass into Idaho. Lewis continued over what is now
- called "Lewis & Clark Pass" (at 6,323 ft) in Montana and reached the
- Missouri above the Great Falls via the Sun River. He then explored
- the Marias River to learn that the route could not be used to trans-
- port furs south. During that time the expedition suffered its only
- hostile encounter. On July 27, 1806, eight Blackfeet tried to steal
- their horses and guns. Two were killed. This was the first in a long
- history of bloodshed that was to provide a continual threat to western
- operations. Clark generally retraced the outbound route, reached the
- Three Forks of the Missouri River, and crossed over to the Yellow-
- stone, which he followed northeast to its juncture with the Missouri.
- There on August 12, 1806, he was reunited with Lewis, who had been
- wounded in the buttock in a hunting accident the day before , and the
- united expedition proceeded down the Missouri (Lewis in a stretcher
- for weeks) to St Louis were they were greeted with what fanfare the
- frontier settlement could muster having completed a journey of over
- 7,600 miles and 2 years, 4 months and 10 days.
-
- The importance of the Lewis & Clark expedition was monumental.
- Joe Walker (see below) was the only explorer who came close to these
- accomplishments in covering new terrain and returning with important
- information. The maps and journals even in draft form revealed the
- geography of the Missouri River, the northern Rockies, and the lower
- Columbia to trappers, entrepreneurs and officials of the U.S. It also
- inspired the public. And it established at Fort Clatsop a foothold on
- the Pacific Coast that would be useful in later diplomatic maneuvering
- with the British over the control of Washington and Oregon terri-
- tories. Their maps became the most authentic source of information of
- the West. One copy reached Canada and one even to Russia. Another
- went to John J. Astor. Lewis & Clark had made a special effort to
- establish friendly relations with the some 500 tribes they had en-
- countered and had returned with almost 200 botanical specimens and 122
- previously unknown birds and animals.
-
- In 1807 Lewis was made governor of Louisiana Territory. Unfor-
- tunately, on the way to Washington in 1809 to prepare the journals for
- publication, he died mysteriously of gunshot wounds on the Natchez
- Trace. It was not until 1814 that Lewis & Clark's official version of
- the expedition was published. Clark was appointed superintendent of
- Indian Affairs [1807-13, 1821-24] and governor of Missouri Territory
- [1813-21]. He was a friend to many of the future mountain men who
- returned with often verbal reports of their travels. This information
- helped Clark fill in many of the blanks on his maps.
-
- Throughout his presidency Jefferson's curiosity about the West
- continued unabated. He was, of course, particularly concerned about
- the boundaries of the Louisiana Purchase. He sent repeated expedi-
- tions up the Red River of Louisiana (which provided the southern
- boundary of Oklahoma and dies in mid-New Mexico). One by William
- Dunbar and George Hunter in 1804 was thwarted by Osage Indians.
- Another led by Capt. Thomas Sparks in 1806 went nearly 700 miles
- upstream before it was turned back by a detachment of Spanish cavalry.
- Spain looked upon the Great Plains as a buffer between its North
- American possessions and the aggressive new nation. Questioning the
- legality of his purchase, the Spanish maintained that Jefferson had
- acquired nothing from Napoleon.
-
- ~#5
- ZEBULON M. PIKE [1779-1813]:
-
- Ironically, it was left to the co-conspirator of Jefferson's
- political rival, Aaron Burr, to test Spain's intentions in the South-
- west. Unwittingly, Jefferson had appointed Gen. James Wilkinson as
- governor of the Louisiana Territory in 1805. Wilkinson was in the
- sometime pay of Spain, which sought to detach the trans-Appalachian
- country from the U.S. He was also conspiring with Burr to carve out
- an independent southwestern empire at the expense of both Spain and
- the U.S. But if he were to accomplish this he needed to know every-
- thing possible about Spanish strength in New Mexico and Texas.
-
- In 1805, Pike had explored the upper Mississippi. In August with
- 20 men he went to Bellefontain, Dubuque and Prairie du Chine. He
- camped at the present Little Falls, MN, and built a stockade. One
- half stayed and the remainder walked to the headwaters of the Missis-
- sippi. With the help of British traders they reached Cass Lake and
- turned back mistakenly taking it to be the source. The return party
- reached St Louis on April 1806.
-
- Almost immediately Pike was sent out by Wilkinson across the
- prairies in July, 1806 with orders to locate the headwaters of the Red
- River, which was considered by Spain to be the northern boundary of
- New Spain. Pike's real mission was to reach Santa Fe and spy on the
- Spaniards. Dunbar and Freeman had already failed in their efforts.
-
- Only partially aware of the devious plot that underlay his
- mission, Pike left Belle Fontaine near St Louis with 22 men and
- crossed the Great Plains, stopping to cement alliances with the Osage
- and the Pawnee. Far out on the plains he struck the trail of a
- Spanish party under Lt. Don Facundo Malgares sent from Santa Fe to
- intercept him. Pike followed it backwards towards Santa Fe. When he
- reached the Arkansas River, he sent his lieutenant (James Wilkinson's
- son) with 5 men downriver with maps and dispatches for the general.
- Then he turned west toward the Rockies which he first sighted on
- November 15, 1806. He explored the southern Rockies for two months,
- discovered Pike's Peak, and climbed Cheyenne Peak from which he could
- see the whole of the southern Rockies.
-
- Pike crossed the mountains and went into winter encampment near
- the Colorado-New Mexico border on a tributary of the Upper Rio Grande,
- where he was found and taken into custody by Don Malgares on February
- 26, 1807. Knowing his mission was to reach Santa Fe, Pike nonetheless
- feigned surprise when captured. "What! Is this not the Red River?"
- he exclaimed.
-
- Pike's capture and subsequent release in Texas July 1, 1807 gave
- him the chance to reconnoiter practically all of upper New Spain,
- which he did with great perception. Eventually he produced an exten-
- sive set of journal notes and one of the major maps of the whole
- Southwest. Perhaps the most influential observation that Pike made,
- however, was his unfortunate characterization of the southwestern
- plains as a "Great American Desert" unfit for civilized inhabitants.
- This assessment - whether designed to camouflage the Burr-Wilkinson
- scheme or not - stamped an image of a desolate Southwest on the public
- mind for most of the 19th century. Pike's description of the Great
- Plains was seemingly confirmed by Maj Stephen H. Long's expedition of
- 1819-20 (see ahead).
-
- Congress refused to support additional explorations for some
- time. Events in Europe and Great Britain were drawing its attention
- until after the War of 1812. Russia continued to expand its Siberian
- Colonies, established herself in Alaska and pushed down the Pacific
- Coast as far as 70 miles north of San Francisco where they built Fort
- Ross in 1811. England was also sending her ships into the region and
- the Canadian North West company was expanding westward. Spain feared
- this attention in an area she considered hers and belatedly and with
- too little support sent ships to investigate and stop the southern
- movement.
-
- ~#6
- WILSON PRICE HUNT [C1782-1842]
-
- Jefferson's interest in the West continued even after he left the
- presidency. With his strong encouragement German immigrant [1784]
- John Jacob Astor [1763-1884], an enterprising New York - China trader,
- land investor and fur merchant moved his attention west. In 1807 he
- initiated plans to set up a trading post at the mouth of the Columbia
- River. In 1808 he set up the American Fur Company and in 1811 with
- the establishment of the Pacific Fur Company launched what could only
- be called a major commercial venture to the Northwest coast in order
- to corner the U.S. fur market. He was fully aware and challenged by
- the Canadian North West Fur Company and aware of its moves in the
- northwest toward domination of the sea otter trade. Unable to find
- Americans he recruited experienced men from Canada. In 1811 he sent a
- party overland via the Missouri, the Snake and the Columbia to the
- Pacific. In Sept 1810, Astor also sent a support ship, the Tonquin,
- loaded with trade goods, around Cape Horn to rendezvous with the
- overland explorers at the mouth of the Columbia. His plan was to tap
- the fur trade of the Northwest (which Cook had announced 40 years
- earlier) in competition with he Canadians and Russians and ship the
- product to China aboard the Tonquin. This plan was perhaps too
- intricate and grandiose but it achieved several important results.
-
- The overland expedition, led by St Louis merchant and partner,
- Wilson Price Hunt, Donald Mackenzie (see previous) and accompanied by
- botanist Thomas Nuttall, left St Louis in March 1811, ascended the
- Missouri as far as the Arikara villages and, switching to horses, set
- out across the Dakotas in July. In so doing, Hunt and his men, in
- order to escape the attention of the Blackfeet to their north, broke a
- new trail across the West. They negotiated the Dakota Badlands,
- penetrated the northern Rockies, marched up the Wyoming Wind River
- Valley, crossed the Continental Divide at 9310 ft Union Pass near the
- head of the Wind River Range parallel the Continental Divide, and
- trekked through Jackson's Hole, Pierre's Hole, and across the waste-
- land of southern Idaho to the Snake River, which they followed to the
- Columbia. The overland crossing, however, had not been an easy one.
- Game was scarce along the route; the Snake River proved not to be
- navigable; the morale of the party suffered; and they became split and
- lost. In fact, not until the spring of 1812 did the final elements of
- the party reach the mouth of the Columbia. Hunt's expedition had
- discovered an overland route south of that taken by Lewis & Clark, but
- the country through which it passed seemed a mountainous wasteland
- rather than a western paradise.
-
- The Tonquin was under the command of Capt Thorne who had made his
- reputation in the Navy against the Barbary pirates. The trappers were
- under the direction of Alexander Mckay. (Mckay's son Tom was part of
- the team and he was to stay in Oregon and become an advisor to future
- settlers. While Hunt and his band struggled overland, the Tonquin and
- its crew reached the Columbia, entered it by passing over the dif-
- ficult bar at its mouth, and in April 1811 set up Fort Astoria on the
- south bank. Mckay died while it was being built. (His Indian widow
- later married Dr. John McLaughlin who was placed in charge of Hudson's
- Bay posts on the Columbia River for 20 years.) Astoria represented
- still another claim to the Northwest Territory, though not, as it
- turned out, a permanent one. Leaving the fort in the hands of an
- acting resident agent, the Tonquin sailed north to trade with the
- tribes of Vancouver Island. Here, in June 1811, trouble with the
- Indians developed due to the cruelty of the ship's captain, Jonathan
- Thorn. A tribe of Indians overwhelmed the ship and killed its entire
- crew save one. A mortally wounded seaman named Thomas Lewis was
- reported to have managed to fire the powder magazine while marauders
- swarmed aboard and the explosion blew the Tonquin and several hundred
- Salish Indians to smithereens. Astoria's main link to the outside
- world was gone.
-
- But Astoria was not destined to be isolated for long. The first
- contingent of Hunt's party arrived in January and Hunt himself in
- February 1812 and by May trading activity had begun in earnest. The
- War of 1812 intervened. In the spring of 1813 John George McTavish
- led a band of Canadian North West Company men up to the gates of the
- fort, informed its inhabitants of the war that existed between Britain
- and the U.S., and demanded its surrender. McTavish and his men were
- soon backed up by the British man of war HMS Raccoon but such force
- was not necessary. Astor's men quickly agreed to haul down the flag
- and sell out to the British. Some even joined them. It was clear
- that Astor's objectives were economic rather than political, and
- Jefferson himself was known to favor only the establishment of "sister
- republics" in the far west rather than an imperial extension of the
- United States.
-
- Before Astoria surrendered, however, Astor employee Robert Stuart
- [1785-1848] and six men (one of whom went insane) set our eastward
- across the mountains to St Louis. Their march was full of hardships,
- and the possibility of starvation always confronted them. The Blue
- Mountains and Snake River country proved especially difficult, and a
- detour far north to Jackson's Hole to avoid Indians nearly destroyed
- them. They finally arrived in St Louis on April 30, 1813, having
- conquered the Rockies in the dead of winter. More importantly, with
- the exception of the detour to Jackson's Hole, they had located and
- traversed what would become the Oregon Trail. The most important
- features they had discovered were South Pass (at 7550 ft) across the
- mountains at the south end of the Wind River Range and the Sweetwater
- River route to the Platte, which they followed across the plains.
- South Pass would become the funnel through which hundreds of thousands
- of immigrants would pour on their way west.
-
- The War of 1812 effectively ended Astor's efforts in the North-
- west. After the war Astor, with Stuart in charge [1820-24], moved in
- to dominate the Great Lakes fur industry as the British influence
- waned and Indian opposition diminished. By 1827 Astor had a U.S. fur
- monopoly and created what may have been the largest personal fortune
- of the day. All subsequent American efforts on the Columbia River in
- competition with the British failed. The Rendezvous became the
- American pattern of trade to supply the trappers and pick up the
- skins. In contrast the British built permanent year around trading
- posts in the hunting area.
-
- Originally sent [1820] by Secretary of War John C. Calhoun as
- part of a plan designed to frighten the British traders out of U.S.
- territory, Stephen H. Long's [1784-1864] contingent was diverted out
- across the southwestern plains to the Rocky Mountains. A seasoned
- explorer and man of science, and accompanied by a corps of scholars,
- Long surveyed the Great Plains and carefully mapped the whole region.
- He climbed Pike's Peak and measured its altitude, and his artist,
- Samuel Seymour, drew the first views of the Front Range of the Rock-
- ies. Then Long divided his forces, sending one party down the Arkan-
- sas River (where several of the men deserted with all the maps and
- notes), while he continued in search of the sources of the Red River.
- Finally, so he thought, he found them and embarked downstream, his
- mission completed, only to find to his embarrassment that he had
- picked the wrong river. He had cruised down the Canadian, not the Red
- River. This was an important error because even as Long searched for
- that elusive river, John Quincy Adams was concluding the Transcon-
- tinental Boundary Treaty with Spain in which the exact location of the
- river figured importantly. Nonetheless, for the vast region he did
- cover, Long's work was important. His map of 1821 was among the most
- significant the country had produced in that it was based on the
- accurate fixing of geographical points. Unfortunately, his work was
- overshadowed by that of the more dramatic Zebulon Pike.
-
- Three of Pike's concepts dominated American's thinking about the
- Southwest for several generations. Most believed that the plains were
- a "Great American Desert" fit only for Indians and unsuitable for
- white agricultural settlement. Most also believed that the southern
- Rockies and the Upper Missouri country were adjoining neighbors,
- ignoring the existence of what came to be Colorado. And finally a
- whole succession of explorers, geographers, and map makers agreed with
- Pike that somewhere in the heart of the Rockies must be "a grand
- reservoir of snows and fountains" from which rivers flowed towards all
- points of the compass. If the source could be found, then a navigable
- river flowing west to the Pacific was also certain to be found.
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-